Porlamar is the undisputed commercial centre of the island

Porlamar is the undisputed commercial centre of the island, and, while shamelessly unattractive, offers a range of reasonably priced accommodation and dining options. Make sure to ask for lowseason discounts outside the island’s peak periods of Dec–Jan and Easter

Hotel Contemporáneo Av Santiago Mariño between calles Igualdad and Velásquez T0295/414-5565. A decent backup option, though its large, dark rooms (en suite, a/c, TV), darkly furnished, are made darker by windows that don’t open. Nevertheless, it’s clean, friendly and beyond the chaotic centre.

Hotel España C Mariño at Av La Marina T0295/261-2479. At the very bottom of the price spectrum, a slighty gritty yet vibrantly painted guest house; rooms (fan, TV) have very unusual glass-enclosed private bathrooms. There’s a restaurant in the building, and pay-by-use bathrooms are open to the public – though whether the target clientele is beachgoers or vagrants is unclear.

Hotel Nuevo Puerto C La Marina at C Arismendi T0295/263-8888. This place is a bit dingy, but has decent-sized, en-suite rooms (a/c) and a ground- floor restaurant. The waterfront area is considered unsafe after 10pm

Hotel Scan C Marcano between calles Narváez and Hernández T0295/264-3859, Wwww.portalmargarita.com/scan.htm. A rung above the others, with huge, colourful, cutely decorated rooms (en suite, a/c, TV), some with windows. Far enough from the centre’s fracas, though still a bit noisy on the street side. There’s a ground-floor restaurant/bar and a book exchange.

Hotel Tamaca Av Raúl Leoni at C Campo Sur T0295/261-1602, [email protected] .com.ve. If you’re wondering where all the budgetminded foreigners are, particularly Germans, look no further. Based on the ageing beach-bum atmosphere, you may assume some of the guests haven’t left the outdoor patio/bar/restaurant since arriving here on their first post-Wall vacation. Come for the chummy atmosphere and great water pressure rather than the boxlike, view-less rooms, some with hot water.