South Americans travel by boat

There are several ferry and catamaran services providing travel on South America’s lakes, especially those in Chile, Argentina, Peru and Bolivia, allowing some of the finest scenic experiences in the region. Those relevant to a single country are explored in the country chapter but there are two cross-border crossings that are particularly recommended: the Southern Lakes Crossing between Argentina and Chile and the Lake Titicaca Crossing between Bolivia and Peru.

One of the finest ways to soak in South American atmosphere and get a taste for the slowed-down pace of life is to travel some of the continent’s rivers by boat. Unfortunately, the riverboat industry is one in decline, especially on the Amazon, as increased air services have facilitated speedier transportation for the time-pressed but moneyed traveller, and cargo-only tugs have brought about the demise of several passengerfriendly services.

For the time being, though, several riverboat services survive, and this is a recommended activity for anyone with the time and patience for the slow life, particularly on the narrower, less-frequented rivers. One rule of thumb is to shop around, as boats vary hugely in quality and you want to be sure that you will have a reasonably decent home for the next four to ten days. Your ticket will include hammock space and rudimentary food, but beverages are extra and will probably be expensive on board – it’s best to bring your own supplies. You should also bring a hammock, rope, insect repellent, a sleeping bag (it gets cold) and aim to be on board well before departure to ensure that you don’t get the hammock space right next to the toilets.

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